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TCB Jeans

TCB Jeans_Lined Late S40's Jacket 2024AW Limited

TCB Jeans_Lined Late S40's Jacket 2024AW Limited

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In recent years, they have been releasing lining denim jackets and coveralls at this time of year.

It all started with me wanting to make workwear for people who work outside in winter or in environments without air conditioning.

When TCB was first established, the company didn't have heating, so I used to wear down jackets to work, but in my line of work, the down jackets would quickly become covered in indigo and the cuffs would get tattered. So I was really excited about the idea of creating workwear that would make people like me look forward to winter.

At the beginning of this year, I was thinking about what to do for the next winter lining project. Meeting vintage items can be a miracle, so I had a plan in my head: "If I could meet that JK, I'd like to recreate it," but I couldn't find her.

Of course, from a business perspective, it is well received every year, so I think it would be good to make something every year, but as I wrote at the beginning, I started it because I wanted to make something, and if I made something just because I had to, I wouldn't be able to make something good. So, since I didn't meet the right person at the time, I decided to pass on this year's lining project.

In the midst of all this, as you may remember, we announced the Late S40's in the summer.

This was made possible because Koizumi-san actually provided us with a flannel pocket war model. At that time, I asked the fabric store to reproduce the flannel fabric for the pockets with the same heat as the denim fabric. This is a bespoke flannel fabric that was made by taking color beakers many times.

When we successfully released the Late S40's in the summer, I asked Koizumi-san about this topic. "So, are there no linings in G-jackets from the war period?" He replied, "The lining of the 506 (519) dates back to 1951, and the lining of the 213 (219) dates back to 1930."

After that, I had the opportunity to see the price list from the war period, and although it is a fantasy, it actually has S219 listed on it. (It's strange why it was only No2 at first.) I thought that there really was no 519 from the war period... but technically it was made using No2 denim. That's the story, and this time, I started the project because I wanted to use the same pattern for the lining as the flannel pocket pants so that they would be a set, even though it would be ignoring historical accuracy.

However, the fabric for the pants pockets is 100% cotton, which means it is not as warm as the lined denim jackets I've had up until now, so I asked the fabric store to make it with 80% cotton and 20% wool. Specification = 30/2 x 30/2 3/1 (left twill). The thread count and color are the same as the flannel pants.

I was wondering whether to write this here, but I got permission from XX DEVELOPMENT, who has been helping me with the linings so far, and I will write about it here. As I said at the beginning, when I met Vintage, I decided not to do the usual project using the Schonherr loom this year, so this is not related to the matter...

The Schonherr loom that was used to weave the linings is not working at the moment because the operator has fallen ill. We have been promoting the product using phrases such as "old-fashioned manufacturing" and "very experienced craftsmen", but we are keenly aware of the difficulty of continuing to make the same products.

I hope to hear the sound of Schonherr again next year. Of course, I hope that the indigo rope dyeing, power looms, and TCB sewing machines will continue to operate. The lining project for 2024 will be announced as Lined Late S40's.

The above is reprinted from the TCB website.

I thought it would be the same lining as jeans, but I was impressed that the jacket lining is made out of a solid wool blend.

Although it is a wool blend, it is not as thick as a wool blanket, which is a plus. For those who don't like the thick underarm area of lined blankets, this blanket can be worn without stress.

It can also be worn for a longer period of time, so it is recommended for those who are new to lining.

You can still wear it, so be sure to buy it soon before it gets too hot.

As mentioned above, made-in-Japan products, especially our beloved denim, are truly in danger of extinction.

Whichever way you look at it, the workforce is aging, there is a shortage of workers, and the sewing machines and looms that are used will eventually become unusable.

Let's appreciate the blessings of the things we can get easily.

Actual size chart: Unit: cm

size 34 36 38 40 42 44 46
shoulder width 45.5 49.0 80.0 51.0 52.5 55.0 56.5
Length 54.5 55.5 55.5 58.5 60.0 63.0 63.0
Chest width 51.5 54.0 54.5 58.0 59.5 63.0 64.0
Sleeve Length 56.0 57.3 58.5 60.5 61.5 61.0 61.0
Cuff width 9.5 10.0 10.3 10.8 11.0 11.3 11.5

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