TCB Jeans_Late 1940s Jacket 13.5oz_Indigo Tab

The sample we used this time likely evokes the late war period, when wartime regulations continued, material shortages became severe, and the use of different materials for pocket bags had to be tolerated. Seamstresses were also recruited for military uniform production, so it's imagined that unskilled workers sewed them.

The jacket features a leather patch sewn in a very low position, thick box stitching, and black chain stitching on the bobbin thread. It's a model characterized by its lily buckle.

When we made the S40's, we intentionally made the length longer than vintage pieces and tightened the armholes and body width slightly, so it would be easier to coordinate.

However, this time, we made it without any modifications to the vintage silhouette, keeping the shoulder slope and armhole attachment points exactly as they were.

As a result, we believe this will create the unique fading characteristic of that era, especially in the creases formed at the sides. (Indeed, you can observe residual color in the creases at the sides of the vintage piece we referenced.)

We believe this specification will make even those who already own an S40's want to add this one to their collection. We would be delighted if you could see just one of the ten unique faces out of ten possibilities.

Denim

In the past, it was difficult to maintain a consistent thickness when spinning cotton into yarn.

Therefore, the yarn inevitably became irregular, and this irregularity affects how the color fades.

However, what we wonder is whether the thick parts of the irregular yarn and the average thickness of the yarn can really be confined to a single number.

In short, we also say, "We use 7-count irregular yarn for the warp," but when looking at vintage pieces, if you measure different yarns, don't the analysis results differ each time?

Of course, there is a method of averaging and starting production, but the answer we arrived at this time was to blend two types of warp threads again.

The idea is that the thickness of the yarn spun with effort back then, when measured by today's standards, would be classified as a second count.

Based on the hypothesis that the No. 2 fabric from the 1890s, which is still fresh in our minds, was not a premium line but a second line and therefore had poorer yarn quality, we blended four types of yarn.

This time, we didn't think it was necessary to blend that many, but it's a fabric from a chaotic era 80 years ago.

The cotton is Texas-grown cotton. For the warp, we decided to have them weave a blend of 7.5-count weak but long irregular yarn and 6.5-count short but strong irregular yarn.

For the weft, we had them make a 6-count yarn with about half the irregularity of the warp.

Down Patch

This G-jean is fascinating because I thought the leather patch had fallen off, but it was just hidden, sewn too low. From the back, you can see it's sewn right at the edge of the yoke's lapped seam.

Lily Buckle

It's iron, but the lily buckle still has a beautiful plating. The triangular clasp also noticeably shows its imperfection.

Cinch strap

As with the s40's Jacket, the strap is almost rectangular.

Box Pleats

All the pleat-holding stitches are of different sizes. The S40's also had wide ones, but that was due to misplacement. This time, each one is generally irregular in size. The casualness of "as long as it holds, it's okay!" is what makes the wartime period interesting.

Upper Chain Stitch on the waist belt

Waistband chain. In workwear, the upper and lower threads often have different colors, and while yellow & orange are seen in Levi's Denim Jackets, this tiger-stripe pattern is rare. The waistband of the pants is yellow & yellow.

Excerpted from TCB official

The red tab has been minorly changed to an indigo tab.

Please enjoy it as a set-up.

*Please note that the TCB products we stock are not samples, so please refrain from visiting for the sole purpose of trying them on.

Actual size chart: Unit in cm