TCB jeans_Catface Jacket 10.2oz_Denim

When planning the Cat Face Pull Over, I absolutely knew I also wanted to create the US ARMY M40 denim jacket, adopted in 1940.

In the 1930s, highly decorative coveralls already existed for civilians.
In contrast to those, the M40 was different.
Its ornamentation was stripped away, resulting in a simpler garment focused on practicality.

Compared to the somewhat large and rough pockets seen on the M-35, this jacket's design is more geared towards practicality, retaining only essential functions.
I think it truly embodies a "military-issue garment."

Until now, I hadn't been particularly drawn to civilian two-pocket coveralls from the wartime period, but this US ARMY one is an exception. It's somehow rugged, yet also rational.
I was drawn to the "reasoned roughness" unique to military items.

Similar to the SEAMEN series, with the desire for it to be worn as a set-up,
I based it on the US ARMY M-35 denim trousers, adopted in the late 1930s.

With a wide, relaxed silhouette and a deep rise.
Its design, prioritizing workability above all, feels rather fresh from a modern perspective,
and it's a model that has an excellent balance when paired with the jacket.

To reproduce the "roughness" and "nep texture" found in vintage US ARMY fabric, TCB attempted an approach of using recycled cotton for both warp and weft threads.

Recycled cotton is typically discussed in the context of environmental considerations, but the resulting yarn inevitably becomes rough.

For brands that aim for a clean, tidy finish, it can be considered a "difficult material to handle." However, for TCB, that "unavoidable unevenness" was precisely what we sought.

Taking cotton that has already been spun into yarn and spinning it into yarn again. The inconsistency born from this process ultimately brings out the atmosphere of that era.

Additionally, slub-dyed gray yarn is used for the weft.
The reason indigo appears deeply subdued, despite its blue color, is said to be an effort at the time to conceal dirt. Although the fabric has been Sanforized, we intentionally minimized the amount of water used this time.

As a result, the fabric retains a "raw" feel, with a bumpy, three-dimensional texture.

Furthermore, since no skew (anti-twisting) treatment has been applied, natural twisting will occur with wear. It's not a uniform, tidy denim, but rather somewhat rough and imperfect.

However, that "imperfection" was "inevitable" given the constraints of the time,
and I believe that's why it still looks appealing today.

And this is the garment that allows you to wear that very essence.

□Caution□
While all fabrics are custom-made by analyzing vintage pieces, the fabric for this item is different from the Catface Pullover Shirt, despite sharing a similar name. Please note that it is not the same fabric as the pullover shirt set-up.

Reproduced from TCB Official Website

This piece is based on the US ARMY M40 denim jacket adopted in 1940.

In contrast to the decorative details seen in civilian coveralls of the 1930s, this design is characterized by its pursuit of simplicity and practicality, unique to military-issue items. Its functional construction, stripped of unnecessary elements, conveys the appeal of genuine military-issued gear.

To replicate the rugged texture characteristic of vintage US ARMY denim, the fabric used is an original denim made from recycled cotton for both warp and weft threads. The naturally occurring neps and unevenness beautifully capture the atmosphere of the era.

Furthermore, the use of slub-dyed gray yarn for the weft adds a deep hue to the indigo. You can enjoy rich aging as you wear it over time.

While the fabric has undergone Sanforization, the shrinkage rate has been suppressed to preserve the fabric's original texture, resulting in an attractive uneven feel. Additionally, since no skew (anti-twisting) treatment has been applied, natural twisting will appear with wear, developing a vintage-like texture.

The visible nep texture from a distance is a nice touch.

We also recommend pairing it with the M-35 denim trousers from the same series. You can enjoy a rugged and practical US ARMY style.

※The TCB products we stock are not samples, so please refrain from visiting for the sole purpose of trying them on.

Actual Size Chart: Units in cm