TCB Jeans_Late 1940s Jacket 13.5oz_Indigo Tab

The sample we used this time is based on the late WWII image, where material shortages became severe due to wartime restrictions, forcing manufacturers to accept different materials for pocket linings. Also, due to the conscription of skilled sewers for military uniforms, unskilled workers likely took their place.

The jacket features a leather patch sewn in a very low position, thick box stitching, and a black bobbin chain stitch. The lily buckle is a distinctive feature of this model.

When we made the S40's, we intentionally made the length longer than vintage and the armholes and body width slightly tighter to make it easier to wear.

However, this time, we have not made any modifications to the silhouette from the vintage, and we have kept the shoulder slope and armhole attachment as they are.

As a result, we believe that the unique wrinkles that form in the armpit area, characteristic of this era, will create a distinctive fade. (Indeed, you can observe the color remnants formed by the valleys of the armpit wrinkles in the vintage piece we referenced.)

We hope that even those who already own an S40's will be tempted to add this specification to their collection.
If you could take a look at one of the 10 different faces among the 10 available, we would be delighted.

Denim

In the past, it was difficult to maintain a consistent thickness when spinning cotton into yarn.

Therefore, the yarn inevitably became uneven, which affects how it fades by picking up the uneven texture.

However, what we question is whether the thick parts of uneven yarns and the average thickness of the yarn can truly be captured by a single number.

In essence, we also claim to "use #7 uneven yarn for the warp," but when examining vintage pieces, if the yarn being measured changes, won't the analysis results differ each time?

Of course, there are methods that involve calculating an average and starting production, but the solution we arrived at, this time again, is to blend two types of warp threads.

The idea is that the thickness of the carefully spun yarn of that era, when measured by today's standards, would be classified as second-rate.

The No. 2 fabric from the 1890s, which is still fresh in our memory, was not the top-tier line but a second line, so we hypothesized that the yarn quality was inferior and blended four types of yarn.

This time, we didn't think it was necessary to blend that much, but it's a fabric from a chaotic era 80 years ago.

The cotton is Texas-grown cotton. For the warp, we decided to have them woven by blending a weak but long uneven #7.5 yarn with a short but strong uneven #6.5 yarn.

For the weft, we had them create a #6 yarn with about half the unevenness of the warp.

Down Patch

The charm of this denim jacket is that we thought the leather patch had fallen off, but it was just sewn so low that it was hidden. When viewed from the back, it's sewn right at the edge of the yoke's lapped seam.

Lily Buckle

It's made of iron, but the lily buckle still has beautiful plating. The triangular clasp also has a noticeable irregularity.

Cinch strap

Just like the s40's Jacket, the strap is almost rectangular.

Box Pleats

The pleat-holding stitches are all of different sizes. The S40's also had wide ones, but that was due to misplacement. This time, each one is generally irregular in size. The casualness of "as long as it holds" is the interesting part of the Great War era.

Upper Chain Stitch on the waist belt

Waistband chain. In workwear, the top and bobbin threads often differ in color, and while yellow & orange are seen in Levi's Denim Jackets, this tiger pattern is rare. The waistband of the pants is yellow & yellow.

Excerpt from TCB official

The red tab has been subtly changed to an indigo tab.

Please enjoy the set-up.

※The TCB products we have in stock are not samples, so please refrain from visiting our store for fitting purposes only.

Actual size chart: unit cm