TCB Jeans – New Cats Drive Jeans

Approximately three years after its original release, the Cats Drive returns.

Inspired by a vintage 1950s Lee Riders setup, this isn't simply a reproduction. TCB has revisited the model after years of wear testing, refining the denim to create even more beautiful fading while preserving everything that made the original special.

Designed for horseback riding, the New Cats Drive features thoughtful functional details throughout—from the forward-positioned pockets that reduce interference while riding, to the reinforced double-chainstitched side seams, crotch rivets, and carefully engineered inner leg construction. Every detail has a purpose, reflecting an era when workwear was designed around the demands of real life.

The silhouette is one of the slimmer fits in the TCB lineup, offering a clean tapered profile while maintaining enough room through the thigh for everyday comfort.

The denim is woven from EMOT cotton in a left-hand twill construction. For this new version, both the warp and weft yarns have been revised to #6 yarns, while the slub character has been extended to encourage longer, more pronounced vertical fading over time.

Rather than simply bringing back an old favorite, the New Cats Drive represents TCB's current vision of what this iconic riding jean can be.

□ Size
□ Regarding Size
Here are the size impressions of three young TCB staff members. *First photo

Left: Sena-kun, 170cm, 61kg, wearing JK36 PT30
He always wears it with a size feeling reminiscent of the 90s.
Even if he layers, it would be a tight sweatshirt, perhaps.
He was in charge of attaching the waistband.
Unlike Levi's, the waistband of the Riders model is wider and prone to twisting, and since it's a two-needle machine, sewing it requires skill.

Center: 171cm, 62kg, wearing JK38 PT31
Actually, there isn't much difference in height and weight from Sena-kun, but the size he chose was a slightly looser 38. This size would be suitable for wearing a loose sweatshirt or hoodie underneath.
He was in charge of the shoulder chain stitching using a UNION SPECIAL 35800.

Right: TK, 180cm, 64kg, JK40 PT32
He was also in charge of the chain stitching using a UNION SPECIAL 35800.
He mostly sews fabrics aimed at XX, and rarely uses Z-twist left-hand twill fabric.
Left-hand twill uses tightly spun yarn and a very thick yarn count of 5.7, which causes severe needle wear and required changing needles more frequently than usual. He states that Cats Drive is undoubtedly the most challenging fabric to sew among all TCB models.

Spiral Comment

At first glance, the New Cats Drive looks like a clean, slim tapered jean. What makes it truly special, however, is that nearly every detail was originally designed with a purpose.

The pocket placement, reinforced seams, crotch rivets, and construction all trace back to the practical needs of horseback riders. Today, those functional details have become part of the jean's timeless aesthetic.

What impressed us most is TCB's approach to this reissue. Instead of reproducing the previous model exactly, they studied years of real-world wear and refined the denim itself—adjusting the yarn structure to achieve even longer, more striking vertical fades.

It's this relentless pursuit of improvement that makes TCB stand apart.

Spiral Note

What Is a Lee Riders Jean?

Originally introduced for cowboys and rodeo riders, Lee Riders jeans were designed specifically for life on horseback.

Unlike many traditional work jeans developed for miners or laborers, the Riders model incorporated practical features such as repositioned pockets, reinforced seams, and other construction details intended to improve comfort and durability while riding.

The New Cats Drive captures these functional design elements while reinterpreting them through TCB's modern craftsmanship.

Spiral Note

What Is Left-Hand Twill Denim?

Most denim is woven using a right-hand twill, but the New Cats Drive uses left-hand twill.

Left-hand twill is known for its softer hand feel and distinctive fading characteristics. As the denim ages, it tends to develop long, flowing vertical fade lines that many denim enthusiasts appreciate.

For this latest version, TCB refined the slub yarn profile to further enhance those beautiful vertical fades, creating denim that continues to develop character with years of wear.