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TCB Jeans

TCB Jeans_New Cats Drive Jacket

TCB Jeans_New Cats Drive Jacket

Regular price £150.00 GBP
Regular price Sale price £150.00 GBP
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We are excited to announce the revival of the Cats Drive series after approximately three years.
It is based on a vintage Lee setup from the 1950s.

As shown in the image section, this is a design patent filed in 1949. In 1949, the era was still dominated by the "box silhouette" of the 1st model.
However, as early as the 40s, Lee had already abandoned pleats and was creating a body-hugging silhouette with vertical seams on both the front and back. This means that Lee had already perfected this form as the "Rider" long before the 3rd model, or "trucker jacket." You can appreciate its beautiful silhouette when worn true to size, even with the TCB Cats Drive Jacket.

Now, in reviving it after three years, we have revisited just one aspect:
the fabric.
Previously, we used a fabric made from "EMOT cotton," a blend of cotton harvested in East Memphis, New Orleans, and Texas, with 5.7-count yarn for the warp and 6.7-count yarn for the weft.

This fabric was designed to achieve the long, streaky fades characteristic of left-hand twill.
This time, we are still using EMOT cotton. However, after observing the aging of the first batch, we felt that we wanted to adjust the fading to have even longer vertical streaks. Therefore, this time, both the warp and weft yarns have been adjusted to 6-count.
Furthermore, by making the slub shape of the yarn longer, we are physically creating variations in the fabric surface, aiming for even longer and more pronounced vertical slub fades.

While it's a familiar name, this is not just a mere re-production.
This is the Cats Drive, re-created by TCB in its current form.

□Regarding Sizing
Here are the sizing impressions from three young TCB staff members. *Photo 1

Left: Sena-kun, 170cm, 61kg, wearing JK36 PT30
He always wears a size that evokes a 90's aesthetic. Perhaps it's like a tight sweatshirt if worn layered underneath. He was in charge of attaching the waistband. Unlike Levi's, the waistband of the Riders model is wider and prone to twisting, and since it's a two-needle seam, it requires skill to sew.

Center: 171cm, 62kg, wearing JK38 PT31
While his height and weight are not significantly different from Sena-kun's, he chose a slightly looser size 38. This size would be suitable for wearing with a loose sweatshirt or hoodie underneath. He was responsible for the shoulder chain stitching using a UNION SPECIAL 35800.

Right: TK, 180cm, 64kg, JK40 PT32
He also worked on the chain stitching with a UNION SPECIAL 35800. He mostly sews XX-inspired fabrics, and rarely uses Z-twist left-hand twill fabric. Left-hand twill fabric, with its tight yarns and very thick 5.7-count yarn, consumes needles quickly and required more frequent needle changes than usual. He confirmed that the Cats Drive fabric is undoubtedly the most challenging to sew among all TCB models.

The above is reproduced from the official manufacturer's information.

TCB Jeans New Cats Drive Jacket

The TCB Jeans "New Cats Drive Jacket" is revived after approximately three years.

Based on the 1950s Lee Riders jacket, it's not just a mere reproduction of vintage, but a piece re-engineered by TCB with current technology and experience.

Its greatest feature is its beautiful silhouette.

As seen in the Lee patent filed in 1949, this jacket incorporates vertical seams on both the front and back, achieving a three-dimensional silhouette that naturally conforms to the body. This design philosophy, distinct from the boxy silhouettes prevalent at the time, was an innovative design that foreshadowed later trucker jackets.

The denim used is left-hand twill selvedge denim made from EMOT cotton.

For this revival, both the warp and weft yarns have been changed to 6-count, and the shape of the slub yarn has been revised, resulting in an updated fabric that allows for even longer and more beautiful vertical fades.

This new Cats Drive Jacket is filled with both respect for vintage and TCB's unique pursuit of improvement.

Spiral Comment

The New Cats Drive Jacket is one of those garments that truly reveals its character once you put it on.

While photographs highlight its vintage styling, it's the tailored silhouette that leaves the strongest impression. The vertical panel construction naturally follows the body, creating a clean, flattering fit that feels remarkably modern despite its 1950s origins.

What makes this revival especially interesting is TCB's approach. Rather than reproducing the previous version exactly, they carefully studied how the original denim aged after years of wear and refined the fabric to produce even longer, more pronounced vertical fading.

This philosophy is what sets TCB apart. Rather than simply recreating the past, they continue to improve upon it—always asking how a great vintage design can become even better.

Spiral Note

What Makes the Lee Riders Jacket Different?

The Lee Riders Jacket was originally developed for cowboys and horseback riders during the late 1940s and 1950s.

Unlike the boxy work jackets that were common at the time, Lee designed this jacket with vertically shaped panels that followed the natural lines of the body. A design patent filed in 1949 already showcased this remarkably modern silhouette—long before the trucker jacket became an industry standard.

The New Cats Drive Jacket faithfully captures this innovative design while benefiting from TCB's meticulous Japanese craftsmanship.

Spiral Note

What Is Left-Hand Twill Denim?

Most denim is woven using right-hand twill, but the New Cats Drive Jacket is made from left-hand twill denim.

Left-hand twill is known for its slightly softer feel and the distinctive vertical fading it develops over years of wear.

For this latest version, TCB refined both the yarn count and the slub profile to enhance these characteristics even further, allowing the denim to develop longer, sharper fade lines as it ages.

Rather than simply wearing out, the fabric continues to evolve, rewarding years of regular wear with beautiful character.

Size Chart

Measurements are taken by Spiral after one wash. Please compare them with a similar garment you own.
掲載サイズは、Spiralにてワンウォッシュ後の実物を計測しています。お手持ちの衣類と比較してください。

サイズ
Size
34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50
肩幅
Shoulder
44.0 cm
17.3 in
46.0 cm
18.1 in
47.5 cm
18.7 in
49.0 cm
19.3 in
50.5 cm
19.9 in
53.5 cm
21.1 in
55.5 cm
21.9 in
57.0 cm
22.4 in
58.3 cm
23.0 in
着丈
Body Length
57.0 cm
22.4 in
59.0 cm
23.2 in
59.5 cm
23.4 in
62.0 cm
24.4 in
63.5 cm
25.0 in
64.5 cm
25.4 in
65.0 cm
25.6 in
64.0 cm
25.2 in
66.5 cm
26.2 in
身幅
Chest
48.0 cm
18.9 in
49.3 cm
19.4 in
51.5 cm
20.3 in
53.3 cm
21.0 in
55.3 cm
21.8 in
57.5 cm
22.6 in
59.0 cm
23.2 in
61.5 cm
24.2 in
63.8 cm
25.1 in
ウエスト
Waist
38.3 cm
15.1 in
40.5 cm
15.9 in
42.3 cm
16.7 in
43.5 cm
17.1 in
45.5 cm
17.9 in
48.0 cm
18.9 in
50.0 cm
19.7 in
52.0 cm
20.5 in
54.5 cm
21.5 in
袖丈
Sleeve Length
58.5 cm
23.0 in
60.5 cm
23.8 in
62.0 cm
24.4 in
63.5 cm
25.0 in
62.8 cm
24.7 in
63.5 cm
25.0 in
63.0 cm
24.8 in
63.0 cm
24.8 in
64.0 cm
25.2 in
袖口幅
Cuff Width
10.5 cm
4.1 in
11.8 cm
4.6 in
12.0 cm
4.7 in
12.0 cm
4.7 in
12.8 cm
5.0 in
13.3 cm
5.2 in
14.3 cm
5.6 in
13.5 cm
5.3 in
14.0 cm
5.5 in

Please note that measurements may vary slightly depending on the individual garment.
製品ごとに若干の個体差が生じる場合がございます。

Trying on at the store

In-store try-ons are offered as a service to customers who are considering purchasing from our store.

Please refrain from trying on items solely for the purpose of size confirmation.

Items such as cut-and-sew garments, which are prone to stretching, cannot be tried on. Exchanges after trying on at home post-purchase are also not accepted.

Please also refrain from trying on belts, as they tend to stretch. For length confirmation, please bring a belt you are currently using.

For leather boots and sandals, try-ons are also offered on the premise of purchase. Please try them on during the final confirmation stage. When trying on, please be careful not to cause wrinkles. Please be sure to bring your own socks.

We appreciate your understanding and cooperation to ensure everyone can enjoy using our services comfortably.

Important Information Regarding International Orders

Please note that international orders may be subject to customs duties, taxes, and import fees upon arrival in your country. These charges are the responsibility of the recipient and are not included in the item price or shipping cost.

We recommend checking with your local customs office for more information about applicable fees before placing your order.

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