TCB Jeans_Late S40's Jacket 13.5oz

The samples we have sampled this time are reminiscent of the latter half of the war, when wartime restrictions continued and supplies became so scarce that they had no choice but to use different materials for the pocket fabric, and sewing technicians were drawn into the production of military uniforms, etc., so the sewing would have been done by inexperienced people.

The JK model features a leather patch sewn very low, thick box stitching and black chain stitching on the bottom. This model is characterized by a lily buckle.

When we made the S40's silhouette, we made the length longer than the Vintage version and made the armholes and width a little tighter to make it easier to match with other items.

However, this time the silhouette has not been modified from the Vintage version, and the angle of the shoulders and the armholes have not been changed.

As a result, I think the wrinkles that form around the sides, which are unique to this time of year, will create a unique discoloration. (In fact, you can see the color remaining on the vintage jeans, which I used as a reference, as the wrinkles around the sides become valleys.)

I think this is a model that anyone who already owns the S 40's will definitely want to add.
If you have 10 of them, it would be even better if you could take a peek at one of the 10 different faces.

Denim

In the old days, when cotton was being spun into thread for fabric, it was difficult to keep the thickness consistent.

As a result, the result will inevitably be uneven, and when the color fades, the uneven shape will be picked up and will affect the way the color fades.

However, we wonder whether the uneven thickness and average thickness of the thread can be expressed in one number.

In other words, we advertise that "the warp thread is uneven No. 7," but if the thread used to measure changes when looking at a vintage item, the analysis results will be different each time, I think.

Of course, there is a way to start by finding an average, but the answer we came up with this time was to mix two types of warp threads.

The idea is that the thickness of the yarn that was spun with great effort at that time would be classified as second best if measured by today's standards.

In the recent past, we have No. 2. The fabric from the 1890s was not the highest quality line but a second line, so we mixed four types of yarn based on the hypothesis that the yarn quality was poorer.

I didn't think it was necessary to mix it that much this time, but the dough is from a chaotic time 80 years ago.

The cotton used is from Texas. I decided to have them mix a weak but long uneven number 7.5 thread for the warp and a short but strong uneven number 6.5 thread for the weave.

I had them make a No. 6 thread with unevenness horizontally that was about half the unevenness vertically.

Down Patch

I thought the leather patch had come off, but it turned out it was just hidden because it was stuck too far down the garment. If you look at it from the back, you can see that it's sewn on at the edge of the yoke roll seam.

Lily Buckle

The lily buckle is made of iron but still has a beautiful plating. The triangular clasp is also noticeably distorted.

Cinch strap

Like the s40's Jacket, the straps are roughly rectangular in shape.

Box Pleats

The pleats are all different sizes. The width is also wide, as with the previous S40's, but the position was off. This time, the sizes are all uneven. As long as they stay in place, it's OK! That kind of vagueness is what makes the war so interesting.

Upper Chain Stitch on the waist belt

Waistband chain. In workwear, the upper and lower threads are often different colors. Levis denim jackets are yellow and orange, but this tiger pattern is rare. The waistband of the pants is yellow and yellow.

The above is an excerpt from the TCB official website.

Sorry for the long wait! It's finally here!

It is a short length denim jacket.

This time too, attention to detail has been put into the design.

Please enjoy the setup.

Actual size chart: Unit: cm