TCB jeans_Catface Pullover Shirt

For over 10 years, TCB has been producing the USN Shawl Collar “Seamen Jumper” and “Seamen Trousers.” Thankfully, they have been supported for much longer than I ever imagined. That is precisely why I held back from making another item that had been in the back of my mind for so long. I worried the ranges might overlap. I feared that by adding too many clothes from the same era and with the same vibe, the presence of each individual piece would fade. There was an item I was holding back on for that very reason: the US Army M-35 Pullover Shirts. I’ve owned a vintage one for a long time and had even made a sample. But for the aforementioned reasons, I kept it under wraps, thinking, "We’ve already got the Seamen..." It’s a piece that has been sleeping somewhere in the company for a long time. One day, when I picked up that sample after so long, for some reason, I felt intensely that it was "the time to make it." It felt like flipping through an old photo album. It was as if the atmosphere of that time was still perfectly preserved, and I realized that "it has meaning precisely because it's now." Once that happened, TCB moved quickly. I really liked the word "Seamen," so I wanted a name for the US Army piece that stood alongside it. Army Men? A-Men? None of them felt quite right. That was when I encountered the word "Dogface." It’s a slang term for US Army infantrymen—a word that feels gritty and grounded in the field. But rather than using it as is, I thought about how to translate it as TCB. Once we got to that point, it didn't take long to arrive at CATFACE. Military gear is, by nature, clothing for fighting. But at TCB, we don't just reproduce it; we see it as a "culture" that can be incorporated into daily life. I hope you can wear it without overthinking, while still staying true to its roots. As a piece of workwear—and as casual wear—I hope you enjoy putting it on. A piece that had been sleeping for a long time has finally taken shape. Please enjoy the CATFACE Pullover Shirts. □ Fabric: We reproduced this based on the M35 denim pullover officially adopted by the US Navy in 1935 as deck crew workwear. It is a 10.5-ounce, 2x1 right-hand twill. To recreate the vintage yarn, we had custom slub yarns spun that are thin and long. We adopted a slightly green-cast indigo for the color. This reflects the dyeing techniques of the 1930s, and unlike modern, uniformly managed indigo, the unevenness that occurs during the oxidation process creates a unique depth of color. While the fabric may look subtle at first, I believe it will gradually reveal a rugged expression as you wear it. □ Regarding Sewing: It is a TCB tradition to decide the lineup of sewing machines in consultation with our factory manager while referencing vintage pieces. Sorting through the machines used for this CATFACE, we noticed an "interesting quirk unique to supply items." For the double-stitching on the collar, we used a 1/4-inch (approx. 6mm) gauge machine. On the other hand, for the rectangular part of the chest pocket—which also has double-stitching—we used a 3/16-inch (approx. 5mm) gauge machine. This distinction is a setting that is basically never done in modern factories, especially in Japan. If it’s 5mm, everything is 5mm; if it’s 6mm, everything is 6mm. The premise is that the width of double-stitching must be "absolutely uniform." But the vintage piece we referenced was different. This is just a guess, but... the delivery to the military was decided, the specifications were set, and there were two spots needing a double-needle process. The factory had two machines. The widths are different, but let's just get it done with those two. I imagine it was a "field-level" decision like that. Of course, the "two machines" part is a hypothetical, and in reality, it must have been a decision on a much larger scale (laughs). The interesting thing about military gear is, after all, "the interpretation of the mil-spec by civilian factories." How to meet specifications with the equipment available at that manufacturer. That ingenuity and pragmatism end up appearing as the product's individuality. Originally, these weren't clothes for sale, but "clothes to be supplied." How to make clothes for fighting. The accumulation of that rationality and on-site judgment might be the most interesting detail when looked at today. Until now, we haven't really made labels for TCB military items. But this time, I felt like adding something. Not a perfect reproduction of the original, but with a little bit of playfulness, giving it a US Army civilian taste. Not a tag for selling, but a "tag for managing." That’s why it's roughly tacked on with a double-needle machine—it’s at a temperature where it’s fine if it falls off. The tag reads: CAT SUPPLY DIVISION. Please be sure to take a look at that when you pick it up. It’s attached so casually, it’s as if it’s saying "remove it once you’ve confirmed your size." It’s cute in an American way, so you can leave it on, or remove it for a cleaner look. I hope that little detail leads to your own unique way of wearing and styling it.

Reprinted from TCB official

The "CATFACE Pullover Shirts" are based on the 1935 US military pullover.

Motivated by the M-35 denim pullover adopted by the US Navy, this piece is finished with TCB's unique interpretation. While it possesses the ruggedness characteristic of military wear, its charm lies in its balance, making it easy to incorporate into daily life.

The fabric is 10.5oz right-hand twill denim. To replicate the vintage texture, we used custom-spun slub yarn and dyed it in a slightly green-cast indigo. As you wear it over time, you can enjoy deep color fading and a rich aging process.

Meticulous attention to sewing details is also evident, with different widths of double-stitching intentionally used for the collar and pockets. This expresses the individuality born from rationality that is unique to vintage military gear.

With a large pocket on the chest, it features a pullover design that can be easily slipped on. It works not only as a shirt but also as a light jacket, making it a versatile piece for all seasons.

The "CAT SUPPLY DIVISION" tag is also a memorable detail. It is roughly sewn on, allowing you to either leave it as is or remove it for a cleaner, more streamlined look.

A piece that, despite its military background, feels natural and effortless in your everyday style.

It pairs well with any bottom—denim, chinos, or military pants—and is an item you will enjoy for a long time.

*The TCB products in stock at our store are not samples; please refrain from visiting solely for the purpose of trying them on.

Actual size chart: Unit in cm

Size	34	36	38	40	42	44	46
Shoulder Width	46.5	49.0	50.5	52.5	55.0	56.5	59.3
Length	68.5	70.0	71.0	72.5	75.0	76.0	73.5
Width	55.0	57.5	59.0	61.0	63.5	65.5	67.3
Sleeve Length	54.3	56.0	57.8	59.0	60.8	60.0	58.3
Cuff Width	10.0-15.0	10.8-15.3	10.5-16.0	11.0-16.3	11.0-16.8	11.8-17.0	12.0-17.0