TCB jeans_Catface Jacket 10.2oz_Black Denim

When planning the Cat Face Pullover, I absolutely knew I wanted to create this too: the US ARMY M40 denim jacket, adopted in 1940.

In the 1930s, highly decorative coveralls were already common among civilians. In contrast, the M40 was quite the opposite. Its decorativeness was stripped away, resulting in a simpler, more practical garment.

Compared to the somewhat large and rough pockets seen on the M-35, this one is designed to be more practical, retaining only the necessary functions. I think it truly embodies the idea of "a garment issued for service."

Until now, I hadn't been particularly drawn to civilian two-pocket coveralls from the wartime period, but this US ARMY one is different. There's something rugged and rational about it. I was drawn to the "reasoned roughness" unique to military items.

Similar to the SEAMEN series, I also wanted to offer it as a set-up, so I based the trousers on the US ARMY M-35 denim trousers, adopted in the late 1930s.

They feature a wide, loose silhouette and a deep rise. The design, prioritizing workability, feels rather fresh from a modern perspective, and it balances very well when paired with the jacket.

To reproduce the "roughness" and "nep feeling" seen in vintage US ARMY fabric, TCB's approach this time was to use recycled cotton for both the warp and weft threads.

Recycled cotton is often discussed in the context of environmental considerations, but it inevitably results in a rougher yarn. For brands aiming for a pristine finish, it can be considered a "difficult material to work with." However, for TCB, that "unavoidable unevenness" was precisely what we were looking for.

Cotton that has once become yarn is turned into yarn again. The inconsistencies created through this process ultimately bring out the atmosphere of that era.

Furthermore, gray yarn dyed with indanthrene was used for the weft. The reason indigo appears to have a deep, subdued color, even while developing a blue hue, is said to be a design choice at the time to conceal dirt. Although the fabric is sanforized, we intentionally kept the amount of water used to a minimum this time.

As a result, the fabric retains a "raw" feel, with a bumpy, three-dimensional texture.

Additionally, since no skew (twist prevention) treatment has been applied, natural twisting will occur as it is worn. It's not a uniform and neat denim, but rather somewhat rough and imperfect.

However, this "imperfection" was an "inevitability" born from the limitations of the time, and I believe that's why it still appears appealing today.

And this is the piece that allows you to wear that very essence.

□Caution□
While all fabrics are custom-made based on vintage analysis, please note that the fabric for this item is different from the Catface Pullover Shirt, despite sharing a similar name. The pullover shirt and this item are not made from the same fabric if you intend to wear them as a set-up.

The above is reprinted from TCB's official website.

This piece is based on the US ARMY M40 denim jacket, adopted in 1940.

In contrast to the decorative details found in 1930s civilian coveralls, this design is characterized by the simplicity and practicality unique to military issue. Its functional construction, stripped of excess, evokes the charm of issued gear.

To reproduce the rugged texture characteristic of vintage US ARMY denim, the fabric used is an original denim made with recycled cotton for both warp and weft. The naturally occurring neps and unevenness perfectly capture the atmosphere of that era.

Furthermore, gray yarn dyed with indanthrene is used for the weft, adding a deep hue to the indigo. You can enjoy the rich aging process as it is worn over time.

While sanforized, the fabric is finished with minimal shrinkage to preserve its original character, resulting in an attractive uneven texture. Moreover, since no skew (twist prevention) treatment is applied, natural twisting will occur with wear, developing a vintage-like feel.

The nep visible even from a distance is a nice touch.

We also recommend pairing it with the M-35 denim trousers from the same series. You can enjoy the rugged and practical US ARMY style.

※The TCB products we stock are not samples, so please refrain from visiting solely for fitting purposes.

Actual size chart: unit cm