TCB Jeans_Lined Late S40's Jacket 2024AW Limited

For the past few years, Lining denim jackets and coveralls have been released around this time of year.

It all started with the desire to create workwear for people who work outside in winter or in environments where air conditioning is not available.

When TCB was first established, the company didn't have heating, so I used to wear down jackets to work, but with my line of work, the down jackets would quickly become covered in indigo and the cuffs would get worn out. So, I was personally passionate about creating workwear that would make people like me look forward to winter.

At the beginning of this year, I was thinking about what to do for the next winter's lining project. Since encountering vintage items can sometimes depend on miraculous coincidences, I had a plan in my head: "If I could meet that JK, I'd like to recreate it," but I couldn't find her.

Of course, from a business perspective, it has been very well received every year, so I think it would be good to make something every year, but as I wrote at the beginning, I started it because I wanted to make something, and if I made something just because I had to, it wouldn't be good. So, since I wasn't there at the time, I decided to pass on this year's lining project.

In the midst of all this, I'm sure you all remember the Late S40's that we announced in the summer.

It was only thanks to Koizumi-san providing us with the actual flannel pocket war model that we were able to make this. At that time, we asked the fabric store to recreate the flannel fabric for the pockets with the same heat as the denim fabric. This is a special order flannel fabric that was made by repeatedly using color beakers.

When we successfully released the Late 40's collection in the summer, I chatted with Koizumi-san and asked him, "So there really aren't any linings in wartime denim jackets?" He replied, "The lining on the 506 (519) dates back to 1951, and the lining on the 213 (219) dates back to 1930."

Afterwards, I had the opportunity to see a wartime price list, and although it's a myth, it does in fact list S219. (It's strange why it only had No. 2 at first.) I thought that wartime 519 didn't exist after all, but technically it was made using No. 2 denim. That's the story, and this time, although it ignores historical accuracy, I wanted to use the same pattern for the lining of the flannel pocket pants so that they would make a perfect set, so I started the project.

However, the fabric for the pants pockets is 100% cotton, which means it's not as warm as the lined denim jackets I've had up until now, so I asked the fabric store to make it with a cotton-wool mix of 80% cotton and 20% wool. Specifications: 30/2 x 30/2 3/1 (left twill). The thread count and color are the same as the flannel pants.

I wasn't sure whether to write about this here, but I got permission from XX DEVELOPMENT, who has been helping me with my linings up until now, and I'm writing about it here. As I mentioned at the beginning, I decided to postpone my usual project using the Schonherr loom this year because of my encounter with Vintage, so this issue is unrelated...

The Schonherr loom that has been used to weave our linings is currently not working due to the health of the operator. We have been promoting the product using phrases such as "old-fashioned manufacturing" and "veteran craftsmen," but we are keenly aware of the difficulty of continuing to produce the same products.

I hope to be able to hear the sounds of Schonherr again next year. And of course, I hope that the indigo rope dyeing, power looms, and TCB sewing machines are still running. The lining project for 2024 will be announced as Lined Late S40's.

The above is reproduced from the TCB website.

I thought it would be the same lining as jeans, but I was impressed that the jacket lining is made with a solid wool blend.

Although it is a wool blend, it is not as thick as a wool blanket, which is a plus. For those who don't like the thick underarm area of lined blankets, this blanket can be worn without any stress.

It can also be worn for a longer period of time, so it is recommended for those who are new to lining.

It's still wearable, so be sure to buy it soon before it gets too hot.

As mentioned above, made-in-Japan products, especially our beloved denim, are truly in danger of extinction.

Whichever way you look at it, there is an aging population, a shortage of workers, and the sewing machines and looms used will eventually become unusable.

Let's appreciate the blessings of having these things available to us.

Actual size chart: Unit: cm