TCB Jeans_Late S40's Jacket 13.5oz_Indigo Tab

The model we sampled this time is based on the late war period, when wartime regulations were still in effect, and the shortage of materials was so severe that heterogeneous pocket fabric had to be accepted. It is imagined that the sewing technicians were mobilized for military uniform production, and unskilled workers probably did the sewing.

The jacket features a leather patch sewn at a very low position, thick box stitching and black chain stitching on the bobbin thread. It's a model characterized by a lily buckle.

When we made the S40's, we made the length longer than the vintage and made the armholes and body width slightly tighter to make it easier to wear.

However, this time, we have not made any corrections to the silhouette from the vintage and have kept the shoulder slope and armhole attachment method as they are.

As a result, I believe that the unique folds that appear in the armpits, characteristic of this era, will create a unique fade. (Indeed, you can see the remaining color caused by the folds in the armpits becoming valleys in the vintage pieces we referenced).

We believe that this specification will make even those who already own an S40's want to add this to their collection. We would be delighted if you could take a peek at one of the ten unique faces out of ten different pieces.

Denim

In the past, when cotton was spun into yarn, it was difficult to maintain a consistent thickness.

Therefore, the result was inevitably uneven yarn, which affected the way the color faded by picking up the uneven texture.

However, what we think is, can the thick parts of the slub yarn and the average thickness of the yarn truly be represented by a single number? That's the question.

In short, we also state, "We use count 7 slub yarn for the warp," but when we look at vintage pieces, if the yarn measured changes each time, won't the analysis results be different? We think so.

Of course, there is a method of calculating an average and starting production, but the answer we came up with this time is to mix two types of warp yarns.

The setting is that the thickness of the yarn spun with great effort in those days would be classified as count 2 if measured by current standards.

Based on the recent memory that the No. 2 fabric from the 1899s was not the top-tier line but the second line, and therefore likely had poorer yarn quality, we blended four types of yarn.

This time, we didn't think it was necessary to mix that much, but it's a fabric from a chaotic era 80 years ago.

The cotton was born in Texas. For the warp, we decided to have a blend of weak but long slub yarn of count 7.5 and short but strong slub yarn of count 6.5 woven.

For the weft, we had a count 6 yarn made with about half the slub of the warp.

Down Patch

A G-jean whose charm lies in thinking the leather patch might have come off, but it was just sewn too low and hidden. From the inside, it's sewn at the edge of the yoke's felled seam.

Lily Buckle

A lily buckle made of iron, but the plating is still beautiful. The unevenness of the triangular clasp is noticeable.

Cinch strap

As with the s40's Jacket, the strap is almost rectangular.

Box Pleats

The stitching that holds the pleats, all of different sizes. The S40's also had wide pleats, but last time the position was off. This time, each pleat is generally of uneven size. "As long as it's attached, it's fine!" This kind of rough-and-ready attitude is what makes the wartime era interesting.

Upper Chain Stitch on the waist belt

Waistband chain. In workwear, the top and bobbin threads often have different colors, and while yellow and orange are seen in Levi's Denim Jackets, this tiger pattern is rare. The waistband of the pants is yellow & yellow.

Excerpt from TCB official

The red tab has been minorly changed to an indigo tab.

Please enjoy it as a set-up.

※The TCB products we have in stock are not samples, so please refrain from visiting for the sole purpose of trying them on.

Actual size chart: unit cm