TCB jeans_Catface Pullover Shirt

For over 10 years, TCB has been producing USN Shawl Collar "Seamen Jumper" and "Seamen Trousers." Thankfully, they've been supported for longer than we ever imagined. That's precisely why we intentionally held back on an item that had always been on our minds. We worried it might overlap too much. By increasing the number of garments from the same era, with the same feel, we feared each individual piece might lose its impact. There was an item we put the brakes on for these reasons: the US ARMY M-35 Pull Over Shirts. I've owned a vintage one for a long time and had even made a sample. But for the reasons mentioned, the project was put on hold with the thought, "We already have the SEAMEN..." It was a piece that had been sleeping somewhere in the company for a long time. One day, when I picked up that sample again after a long time, for some reason, I strongly felt, "Now is the time to make this." It was like flipping through an old photo album. The atmosphere from that time seemed to linger, and I realized, "It makes sense to release this now." Once that decision was made, TCB moved quickly. Since I really liked the word "Seamen," I wanted the US ARMY piece to have a similarly evocative name. Army Men? A-Men? None of them felt quite right. That's when I encountered the word "Dogface." It's a slang term for US Army infantrymen. It has a gritty, on-the-ground feel to it. But instead of using it directly, how would TCB translate it? It didn't take long to arrive at CATFACE. Military clothing is fundamentally designed for combat. But at TCB, we don't just reproduce it as is; we see it as a "culture" that can be incorporated into daily life. We aim for a relaxed feel, but with strong roots. We hope you'll wear it without hesitation, whether as workwear or casual attire. A piece that has been dormant for a long time has finally taken shape. Please enjoy the CATFACE Pullover Shirts. □Fabric This piece was reproduced based on the M35 denim pullover officially adopted by the US Navy as shipboard workwear in 1935. It's a 10.5 oz, 2x1 right-hand twill denim with 9-count warp and 14-count weft. To replicate the vintage yarn, we had a special order placed for thin, long slub yarn. The indigo color is a slightly green-cast indigo. This reflects the dyeing techniques of the 1930s; unlike modern uniformly controlled indigo, the inconsistencies that occur during oxidation create a unique depth of color. Although the fabric may appear subdued when new, we believe it will gradually reveal a rugged character with wear. □Regarding Stitching We decided on the sewing machine lineup in consultation with the factory manager, while referencing vintage pieces. As we organized the machines used for this CATFACE, we noticed the "interesting aspects unique to issued goods." For the double stitching on the collar, a 1/4 inch (approx. 6mm width) machine was used. On the other hand, for the rectangular part of the chest pocket, which also has double stitching, a 3/16 inch (approx. 5mm width) machine was used. This differentiation is a setting that is generally not done today, especially in Japanese factories. If it's 5mm, everything is 5mm; if it's 6mm, everything is 6mm. It's assumed that the width of double stitching "must be consistent." However, the vintage piece we referenced was different. This is just speculation, but... A delivery to the military was decided, specifications were set, and there were two processes requiring twin needles. The factory had two machines. Although the widths were different, they decided to manage with those two machines. I believe it was such a practical decision made on the factory floor. Of course, "two machines" is a hypothetical scenario; in reality, it must have been a decision made on a much larger scale (laughs). The appeal of military items, I believe, is ultimately "the civilian factory's interpretation of mil-specifications." How to meet the specifications with the equipment that particular manufacturer possesses. That ingenuity and pragmatism ultimately appear as the product's individuality. This was originally not clothing for sale, but "clothing for issue." How to make clothing for combat. The accumulation of that rationality and on-site decision-making might be the most interesting detail when we look at it now. Until now, TCB hasn't really made labels for military items. But this time, we felt like adding something. Not a complete reproduction of the original, but with a bit of playfulness, giving it a civilian taste for the US ARMY. Not a tag for selling, but a "tag for management." So it's roughly sewn on with a twin-needle machine, with a casual attitude that it's okay if it comes off. The tag reads CAT SUPPLY DIVISION. When you get your hands on it, please take a look at that too. It's attached so haphazardly, almost as if saying, "Feel free to remove me after you check your size." You can leave it on, as it's charmingly American, or remove it for a cleaner look. I hope that this small detail connects to your personal style and way of dressing.

Excerpt from TCB Official

The "CATFACE Pullover Shirts" are based on the 1935 US military pullover.

This piece is inspired by the M-35 denim pullover adopted by the US Navy, finished with TCB's unique interpretation. It boasts the ruggedness characteristic of military wear while maintaining a balance that makes it easy to integrate into everyday life.

The fabric is a 10.5oz right-hand twill denim. To reproduce the vintage texture, custom-spun slub yarn is used and dyed with a slightly greenish indigo. With repeated wear, you can enjoy a rich fading and aging process that adds depth to the color.

Attention to detail is evident in the stitching specifications, with intentionally different widths of double stitching on the collar and pocket. This expresses the individuality that arises from practicality, characteristic of vintage military wear.

Featuring a large chest pocket, it's designed as a pullover that can be slipped on casually. It can be worn as a shirt or even as a light jacket, making it versatile for all seasons.

The "CAT SUPPLY DIVISION" tag is another striking detail. It's loosely sewn on, allowing you to leave it for an authentic look or remove it for a cleaner style.

This piece, with its military background, seamlessly blends into everyday style without being overly formal.

It pairs well with various bottoms such as denim, chinos, or military pants, making it an item you can cherish for a long time.

*Please note that the TCB products we stock are not samples, so please refrain from visiting our store solely for the purpose of trying them on.

Actual size chart: unit cm