TCB_Cat Head Jacket

□ Encounter with the original material

I wanted to make a new coverall for spring. I started my search for the original material early last year. I gradually narrowed down the target audience, but I couldn't find the right one. Then, while chatting with Ryo, who always works in the same room, I said, "I'd like to make a 1930's duck head coverall because it would be cute." He replied, "I bought one when I lived in the Netherlands and gave it to my dad as a gift." I thought it was a great coincidence, and when I told him that I wanted to target that vintage item, he readily agreed and the project started.

Attention to detail

I have written this many times when talking about coveralls, but I love the distinctive left chest design from the 1930s. Black Bear, Strong Hold, and Boss of the Road are not as asymmetrical as these designs, but they are also characterized by their left and right sides. The most attractive point was the cute and slightly funny duck face. I have always loved the animals in Vintage logos, such as the bulldog from Boss of the Road, the chicken from Can't Bust'em, the bear from Black Bear, and the pig from Finks, but they are all attractive points. In order to recreate this atmosphere, I had the artist redraw it many times, and changed the funny feeling of the original to a cat. As a result, the cat on this tag was made so beautifully that the two-claw dot button on the chest and the dome-shaped tuck button on the sleeve were also cute while recreating the vintage atmosphere. The buttons on the placket have the same matte finish as the Vintage buttons. The rough texture makes them less slippery and easier to put on and take off. I believe this texture is the result of pursuing functionality rather than design.

Another thing that I found attractive was the green of the bartacks and buttonholes. There are many vintage jackets with colorful bartacks, and I've had fun at TCB using colors I've seen before and colors that seem familiar but are not. However, the only jackets I can remember with colorful buttonholes are Duck Head and Oshkosh. Of course, the green looks vivid at first, but the green fades with continued wear, which may be one of the joys of this jacket.

□Fabric

Sewing ingenuity The sewing was also distinctive, with the chin strap collar made with chain stitching. The executive director and I were bothered by this process, but when we consulted with our comrade, Tateno-san of Workers, he told us that he had created a trumpet when he made Payday two years ago. We took his words "It's fine if you use it on TCB," and what we can learn from the compatibility of the collars of Payday and Duck Head is that what we thought was a design was actually a by-product of the convenience of sewing machines considered from the perspective of the manufacturing industry.

When making coveralls at TCB, we make the length a little shorter than the Vintage to make it easier to balance with denim top and bottom. The raglan sleeves mean that it doesn't feel cramped even when worn just right, and it also has a wide range of arm movement. We also had them pay attention to the details of the fabric, from the unevenness of the thread to the color and dyeing method, referring to the Vintage. Recently, rather than expressing unevenness with a single thread count, we have chosen to mix different threads and change the unevenness of each thread. Specifically, we use a 1:1 ratio of 8-count straight thread and 9-count short uneven thread for the warp thread alone. For the weft thread, we use a 1:1 ratio of 12-count natural uneven thread and 12-count thread with neps. As a result, we use four types of thread, so it has a vintage feel. We also had them dyed in a lighter color that is unique to store brands. Because the warp thread is shallow, the weft thread is dyed gray instead of ecru. I think this idea was based on each company's idea of ​​making the warp threads a dark color to make dirt less noticeable, and there were also many fabrics that were made to look darker by dyeing the weft threads gray, making dirt less noticeable.

For the finishing touch, we use nep yarn for half of the weft, so the fabric is finished without being singed.

□ Regarding size

The basic size is based on the Cathartt Chore Coat, TCB's standard coverall. If you are comparing it with a denim jacket, we recommend going down 1-2 sizes depending on your size preference.

The above is reprinted from the TCB official website.

Above all, the vintage-like cat buttons are an irresistible detail. When you look at vintage items, you may wonder why old designs are so attractive. I think it's probably because the originals were hand-drawn.

No matter how much we evolve, I think there is a quality to hand-drawn design that AI cannot reach. That being said, to mass-produce buttons, the hand-drawn designs are of course digitized and then produced.

The temperature difference is so big these days. Coveralls are very convenient because you can use them when you need them. They are just the right thickness and can be used all year round.

*Size 36 will be available at a later date.

Actual size chart: Unit: cm