TCB Jeans_Late S40's Jacket 13.5oz_Indigo Tab

The sample we used this time likely evokes the late war period, when wartime regulations persisted, material shortages became severe, forcing tailors to use different materials for pocket linings. Furthermore, sewing technicians were diverted to produce military uniforms, meaning inexperienced individuals probably did the stitching.

The jacket features a leather patch sewn in a very low position, thick box stitching, and a black bobbin chain stitch. The lily buckle is a distinctive feature of this model.

When we created the S40's, we made the silhouette easier to wear by lengthening the jacket from the vintage style and making the armholes and body width slightly tighter.

However, this time, we have not altered the silhouette from the vintage style, preserving the shoulder slope and armhole attachment as they were.

As a result, we believe that the unique creases that form in the armpits, characteristic of this era, will create a distinct fade. (Indeed, the vintage reference item also shows color remnants where the armpit creases form valleys.)

We believe these specifications will make owners of the S40's want to add this to their collection. If you have 10 pieces, we hope you'll enjoy discovering one of the 10 unique expressions.

Denim

In the past, it was difficult to maintain a consistent thickness when spinning cotton into yarn.

Therefore, the yarn inevitably became slubby, and this slubby texture influences how the color fades over time.

However, what we consider is whether the thick parts of the slub yarn and the average yarn thickness can truly be represented by a single number.

In essence, while we also state, "we use #7 slub yarn for the warp," when we examine vintage items, we wonder if the analysis results wouldn't differ each time depending on which part of the yarn is measured.

Of course, there is a method of averaging and then beginning production, but the answer we arrived at this time was to blend two types of warp threads again.

The idea is that the thickness of the carefully spun yarn of that era, when measured by today's standards, would be classified as second-grade.

We recently used No. 2, and since the fabric from the 1890s was a second line rather than a premium line, we hypothesized that the yarn quality would have been worse, so we blended four types of yarn.

This time, we didn't think it was necessary to blend that many, but it's fabric from a chaotic era 80 years ago.

The cotton is Texas-grown. For the warp, we decided to have a blend of #7.5 yarn, which is weak but has long slubs, and #6.5 yarn, which is short but has strong slubs, woven together.

For the weft, we had a #6 yarn made with about half the slubiness of the warp.

Down Patch

The charm of this denim jacket lies in the fact that what one might assume is a missing leather patch is actually just hidden because it’s sewn too low. From the inside, it's sewn right at the edge of the yoke's felled seam.

Lily Buckle

A lily buckle made of iron, but still beautifully plated. The triangular clasp also has a noticeable irregular shape.

Cinch strap

Similar to the S40's Jacket, the strap is almost rectangular.

Box Pleats

The pleat-securing stitches are all of different sizes. The previous S40's also had wide ones, but they were misplaced. This time, they are all generally irregular in size. The casualness of "as long as it holds" is what makes wartime items interesting.

Upper Chain Stitch on the waist belt

Waistband chain. In workwear, the upper and lower threads often have different colors, and while yellow and orange are seen in Levi's Denim Jackets, this tiger pattern is rare. The waistband of the pants is yellow & yellow.

Above excerpt from TCB official site

The red tab has been subtly changed to an indigo tab.

Please enjoy it as a set.

*Please note that the TCB products stocked in our store are not samples, so please refrain from visiting solely for the purpose of trying them on.

Actual size chart: unit cm