TCB Jeans_Late S40's Jacket 13.5oz_Indigo Tab

The samples we have sampled this time are reminiscent of the late war, when wartime restrictions continued and shortages of materials became so severe that they had no choice but to accept different materials for the pocket fabric, and sewing technicians were probably drawn into producing military uniforms and other items, so the garments were sewn by inexperienced people.

The JK model features a leather patch sewn very low, thick box stitching, and a black chain stitch bobbin. It also features a lily buckle.

When we made the S40's silhouette, we made it longer than the Vintage version and made the armholes and width a little tighter to make it easier to match with other items.

However, this time the silhouette has not been modified from the Vintage version, and the angle of the shoulders and armholes have not been changed.

As a result, the wrinkles that form around the sides, which are unique to this time of year, will create a unique discoloration. (In fact, you can see the remaining color caused by the wrinkles in the sides forming valleys in the vintage jeans that I used as reference.)

I think this is a specification that will make anyone who already owns the S 40's want to add it to their collection.
If you have 10 of them, it would be even better if you could take a peek at one of the 10 different faces.

Denim

In the past, when cotton was spun into thread, it was difficult to maintain a consistent thickness.

As a result, the result will inevitably be uneven, and when the color fades, the uneven shape will be picked up and affect the way the color fades.

However, we wonder whether the uneven thickness of the yarn and the average thickness of the thread can all be expressed in one number.

In short, we advertise that "we use No. 7 uneven warp threads," but I think that if the threads we measure change when looking at Vintage, the analysis results will be different each time.

Of course, there is a way to start by finding an average, but the solution we came up with this time was to mix two types of warp threads.

The idea is that the thickness of the yarn that was spun with great effort at that time would be classified as second best if measured by today's standards.

For No. 2, which is still fresh in our memory, the fabric from the 1890s was not the highest quality line but a second-line line, so we mixed four types of yarn based on the hypothesis that the yarn quality was poorer.

I didn't think it was necessary to mix it that much this time, but the dough is from a chaotic time 80 years ago.

The cotton used is Texas-milled cotton. For the warp threads, I chose a mix of 7.5 count, a weak but long uneven thread, and 6.5 count, a short but strong uneven thread.

I had them make a 6 count thread with unevenness in the horizontal direction that was about half that of the vertical direction.

Down Patch

I thought the leather patch had come off, but it was just hidden because it was stuck too far down the garment. Looking at it from the back, you can see that it's sewn on at the edge of the yoke seam.

Lily Buckle

Although it is made of iron, the lily buckle still has beautiful plating. The distortion of the triangular fastening is also noticeable.

Cinch strap

Like the s40's Jacket, the straps are nearly rectangular in shape.

Box Pleats

The pleat stitches are all different sizes. The previous S40's were also wide, but they were misaligned. This time, they're all uneven in size. It's all good as long as they stay in place! That's the charm of war.

Upper Chain Stitch on the waist belt

Waistband chain. In workwear, the upper and lower threads are often different colors, but while Levis denim jackets often have yellow and orange, this tiger pattern is rare. The waistband of the pants is yellow and yellow.

The above is an excerpt from the TCB official website

The red tab has been changed to an indigo tab.

Please enjoy the setup.

*The TCB products we stock are not samples, so please refrain from visiting us just to try them on.

Actual size chart: Unit: cm