"No.2 Blouse 1890" was created based on the reproduction of 1890s fabric and Mr. Inoue's imagination.
Since No.2 fabric was not the highest quality from the 1890s, we assumed that the cotton quality and thread shape were also rough.
The cotton used is Texas cotton for both the warp and weft. Since the Industrial Revolution, modern cotton has evolved to be white, smooth, and easy to handle, and is first dyed to make it dull.
Apparently five different types of yarn are mixed together to recreate the intense vertical fading effect.
Warp threads (the smaller the number, the thicker the thread)
No. 6: Long slab with weak unevenness
No. 7: Strong slab (twice as uneven as No. 6 and No. 8)
No. 8: Long slab with weak unevenness
No. 3: TCB1890 (Fancy Yarn) A completely custom-made yarn made by chemically analyzing the fibers of a thick yarn found in a vintage item and recreating a different original yarn.
Weft
No. 10: Natural unevenness created by Ishikawa machines
If you turn the product inside out, you will see a large amount of loose threads sticking out from the edge of the fabric. In a normal GALLO inspection, all excess threads are neatly picked up all the way to the inside of the pocket, but this time we have deliberately kept them uncut. *We pick up any threads that are clearly unnecessary and not part of the product's purpose.
Just by looking at this fluffy thread, you will be able to tell the five different threads, so if you get your hands on it, please turn it over and have fun trying to figure out which thread is which.
The five types of yarn that are created are then woven by Ibara craftsmen on power looms...
"Basically, when you set up the loom, if the thread is thick, you can set it for thick threads, and if the thread is thin, you can set it for thin threads. But this fabric uses four different warp threads alone, so it was very difficult to get the balance right."
This is an impossible task, as fabric production on a power loom takes an incredibly long time. You can even feel the pride of the craftsmen in the finished fabric.
When woven, the fabric weighs 9.8 ounces and when washed it shrinks to 11.4 ounces due to the dense weave.
It's definitely light! It's thicker than a shirt but thinner than a denim jacket, so I think I'll be able to wear it for a long time.
[ silhouette】
The sleeves are straight and short, giving the silhouette a sloppy, droopy shoulder look. The loose silhouette with droopy shoulders is not oversized, so it's strangely modern despite being too old-fashioned. Perhaps this is because fashion and trends come and go.
[Luxurious selvedge specifications]
Selvedge is used everywhere, and it's interesting to see it used everywhere in the straight lines of the jacket, including the underside of the collar, waistband, placket, sides of the back body, and where the long and short sleeves join. Since this was the era of single stitching, the edges of the fabric are not finished, so the armholes, shoulders, and front yoke are left unfinished. As to whether this is luxurious or rough, I think it's the latter, as it reduces the amount of cutting work required and they decided to use the edges of the fabric in the straight lines. In the first place, no one thought that selvedge was valuable at the time.
[Included]
The linen patch, cinch hardware, and rivets are the same as those on the Jeans. When checking the documents for back cinches from this era, the hardware is always on the right side, so the TCB Blouse is also attached to the right side. As for pants, they are generally attached to the left side regardless of the era, so this is also a bit of a mystery.
However, in 2023, I made a Good Luck Jacket based on a Boss of the Road blouse from the 1880s, and the cuffs on both sides were fastened in the same direction. When I think about how the common practices of clothing making have accumulated and become the common sense of today, I feel the weight of history.
【size】
The basic rule for choosing the size of a denim jacket is to choose based on shoulder width, but since this jacket has wide shoulders and short sleeves, it is best to choose based on sleeve length. We recommend that you compare the shoulder width of your denim jacket laid flat divided by 2 + sleeve length, and choose a size that is close to the measurements. The jacket has wide armholes and a silhouette with dropped shoulders, so we recommend a size that is a little looser than a tight fit. If you own a 50's jacket or S40's jacket, the same size is a good size that is a little looser.
The above is a somewhat concise summary, with some excerpts from the TCB website.
The buttonholes are vertical and somewhat difficult to fit, the sleeves are unusually short, and it has a fun feel to it, as if it will really fall vertically.As a reproduction of clothing from 130 years ago, it is a simply fun product with many small surprises.
I have experience with thin denim jackets from the previous GOOD LUCK series, and they are really convenient.
