TCB Jeans_No.2 Jeans 1890

The original story is that in 1890, when the patent for rivets expired, rival companies began selling jeans with rivets on them, and Levi responded by creating a cheaper model called the "No. 2."

Since No.2 fabric was not the highest quality from the 1890s, we assumed that the cotton quality and thread shape were also rough.

The cotton used is Texas cotton for both the warp and weft. Since the Industrial Revolution, modern cotton has evolved to be white, smooth, and easy to handle, and is first dyed to make it dull.

Apparently five different types of yarn are mixed together to recreate the intense vertical fading effect.

Warp threads (the smaller the number, the thicker the thread)
No. 6: Long slab with weak unevenness
No. 7: Strong slab (twice as uneven as No. 6 and No. 8)
No. 8: Long slab with weak unevenness
No. 3: TCB1890 (Fancy Yarn) A completely custom-made yarn made by chemically analyzing the fibers of a thick yarn found in a vintage item and recreating a different original yarn.

Weft
No. 10: Natural unevenness created by Ishikawa machines

If you turn the product inside out, you will see a large amount of loose threads sticking out from the edge of the fabric. In a normal GALLO inspection, all excess threads are neatly picked up all the way to the inside of the pocket, but this time we have deliberately kept them uncut. *We pick up threads that are clearly unnecessary and not part of the product's purpose.

Just by looking at this fluffy thread, you will be able to tell the five different threads, so if you get your hands on it, please turn it over and have fun trying to figure out which thread is which.

The five types of yarn that are created are then woven by Ibara craftsmen on power looms...

"Basically, when you set up the loom, if the thread is thick, you can set it for thick threads, and if the thread is thin, you can set it for thin threads. But this fabric uses four different warp threads alone, so it was very difficult to get the balance right."

This is an impossible task, as fabric production on a power loom takes an incredibly long time. You can even sense the pride of the craftsmen in the finished fabric.

When woven, the fabric weighs 9.8 ounces and when washed it shrinks to 11.4 ounces due to the dense weave.

It's just the right weight to hang with suspenders.

[Selvedge weaving]
Just like the actual vintage item, one side of the thick white selvedge is right twill and the other side is left twill.

【rivet】
A double stamp is used to recreate the hand-stamped marks from that time.

[Small steps]
It is primitive, has shallow overlap and is closer to the original, which has a slightly open feel.

[Print on left front pocket]

It reproduces the stamp that indicates that this is a low-priced version and a good deal.

[Rainbow Stitch]

Although each stitch is done individually, the colors are somehow different, just like the original, and the double stitching uses a mysterious two-tone color scheme.

[3P button]

We have created an original three-piece design with buttons, legs and rivets, which is an earlier type than the two-legged or S-wire type.

[Hartshorn buckle]

This original buckle was created based on the buckle invented by Mr. Hartshorne in 1855.

【size】

The rise, thigh width, and hem width are all medium, and compared to other TCB models, the sizing is closest to S40's Jeans with a slightly lower rise. In terms of the historical background, this model was made in an era when belt loops did not yet exist and only suspender buttons were used, so if you plan to wear them with suspenders, we recommend choosing a size 1 to 2 inches looser.

The above is a somewhat concise summary, with some excerpts from the TCB website.

I had imagined it to have a wider silhouette, but it looks quite slim. You can wear it just right, but it's also hard to give up on the oversized look.

What is interesting is the color fading of the fabric, which is made using five different types of thread. Even when it is new, it looks like it will fade vertically.

Actual size chart: Unit: cm